West Texas asado

16 ancho chiles, seeded and stemmed

Salt and pepper

3 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoons lard, bacon grease, or peanut oil

1/2 medium onion, diced

10 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

Crumbled cotija cheese, for serving

Warm flour tortillas, for serving

In a dry skillet heated on high…